Dov Charney’s Doing It Again as Los Angeles Apparel Expands

The American Apparel founder will open a Soho pop-up shop this summer – the first move on the East Coast – as he quietly rebuilds his contemporary basics brand.
Dov Charney's Los Angeles Apparel to open Broadway pop-up shop in New York's SoHo neighborhood.
Los Angeles Apparel's South Central Factory Store. PHOTO COURTESY LOS ANGELES APPAREL.

If there was ever a study of Los Angeles apparel industry comebacks, Dov Charney’s story would be the lead. 

The American Apparel and Los Angeles Apparel founder has been steadily re-growing a contemporary basics brand out of a South Central factory after losing control of his former firm. With Los Angeles Apparel’s rapid growth, it’s clear American Apparel provided a roadmap for Charney to come out of the gate swinging with Los Angeles Apparel. The brand has grown at a rapid clip based on the lessons learned from Charney’s previous business, American Apparel, which was at one time publicly traded and peaked in 2013 at over $630 million in sales. 

Los Angeles Apparel is now set to open its SoHo summer pop up at 480 Broadway and Broome Street in what marks the company’s first try at East Coast retail. 

The location places the company near Madewell, Zara, Bloomingdale’s, Brandy Melville and Balthazar. 

Los Angeles Apparel will make a splash with an over 20,000-square-foot space in what the company described as a “super store.”

Dov Charney's Los Angeles Apparel is set to expand to the East Coast with a SoHo pop-up shop on Broadway.
Dov Charney, founder and former CEO of American Apparel, spray paints just outside Los Angeles Apparel’s future SoHo pop-up shop opening this summer on Broadway. PHOTO COURTESY LOS ANGELES APPAREL/TIKTOK.

A Los Angeles Brand

Los Angeles Apparel – which sells T-shirts, sweatshirts, pants, denim and accessories for men, women and kids – was built on similar concepts as American Apparel. That is, living wages (with employees averaging $20 an hour) and sustainable, domestic production. Los Angeles Apparel sources its yarns and textiles Stateside, while cutting and sewing most of its pieces in South Central. 

It started in 2016 just outside of downtown Los Angeles as a wholesale business, most notably leading the trend of heavyweight cotton T-shirts. That began with Los Angeles Apparel’s 1801 T-shirt in saturated garment dye and vintage-looking pigment dye techniques later adopted by the streetwear and fashion brands buying the company’s blanks. 

The business then made its way into direct-to-consumer with an online shop and Factory Store at its South Central headquarters on 59th Street. 

Nearly a decade in and the business – which began with Charney posting photos to Instagram with the tag line “That’s Los Angeles” – employs well over 1,500 people. 

Whether Charney has interest in raising money through the public markets again is unclear. 

Dov Charney will bring a Los Angeles Apparel Factory Store to the East Coast for the first time
The interior of Los Angeles Apparel’s South Central factory store. PHOTO COURTESY OF LOS ANGELES APPAREL.

The Competition

In the meantime, Charney’s former business in American Apparel, which is now owned by Gildan Activewear, has continued to trade off the shell of a brand no longer helmed by its founder or any veterans of the business. The lack of competition has left plenty of runway for Los Angeles Apparel, clearly.

Gildan, which bought American Apparel out of bankruptcy in 2017, vacated the company’s Arts District factory – once a defining part of the brand and downtown Los Angeles skyline – and has since moved manufacturing overseas. 

The Montreal-based company doesn’t break out the performance of its individual brands, which also includes Champion and Goldtoe among other lines. However, the company said American Apparel’s business was up in the double digits in the most recently ended quarter.  

Overall, Gildan net sales in the first quarter rose 2.3 percent to $712 million. The activewear segment, of which American Apparel is included, increased 9 percent to $647 million. 

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